Day 29: San Antonio to Austin

Started the day with a lovely walk along the Riverwalk in San Antonio.  What a fantastic outdoor space.  First of all, it is set below the sidewalk level of the busy city, so feels miles away.  Then it is full of art, from whimsical fish hung from the I-35 bridge where the Mexican free-tail bats hang out (could have skipped Carlsbad if I had known!) to fountains and music piped in along the trail.  There are restaurants and shops and wildlife and beautiful flowers.  I loved it!

I then had a great lunch at the Sandbar.  They fly in fresh fish each day and had 6 different types of fresh oysters.  I splurged and had a fantastic 3 course meal, including dessert-the key lime pie was fantastic!
Austin was only an hour or so drive north, so I arrived in time to relax at the hotel pool before heading out for dinner (not to rub it in, but it's 88 degrees here at 9 pm at night!).  Listened to the Pine Beetles, an Irish folk band, at Patsy's Cowboy Cafe.  Fun times!

Day 28: San Antonio

Visited the Alamo and heard a great historical discussion of the factors leading up to the battle at the Alamo.  Yes, it is smaller than you would think, but full of history!
Then rented a bike and rode in 90 degree heat to see 2 other missions:

Mission San Jose

Mission Concepcion

Only able to ride about 12 miles or so (way too hot!), so I then visited the Spanish Governor's Palace and Fernando Cathedral (just missed a visit by the Bishop, cops everywhere!).  Then headed out to the McNay Art Museum, where I saw lots of impressionist and medieval art.  This is yet another example of a local art-loving citizen who started a museum.  Reminded me of the Isabella Stewart Gardner in Boston.  Here is the courtyard:

The skies darkened, so I didn't hit the Riverwalk yet, had dinner at "Cheesy Jane's"=great burger with fritos (yes, fritos) underneath the burger.  Yum!

Riverwalk will have to wait until tomorrow, still have to check out the Sandbar Restaurant.  It's a very highly rated seafood restaurant, which sounds a little weird in Texas, but they fly in fresh seafood every day, so I'll give you a full report tomorrow.

Day 27: Texas

Left New Mexico for Texas; yippee ki yay!
After a few hours, got tired of Interstate 10 and hit the country roads.  Explored the Texas Hill Country:

Made a nice change from all the desert I've driven through.  Tried to find the Devil's Sinkhole but he had hidden it too well!  So, found Lost Maple State Park (these maples are relics of the last glacial period and thus "lost") instead.  Saw my first glimpse of fall color as I hiked the East Trail:

Then drove into Bandera, known as the Cowboy Capital of the World because of all the cattle drives that have come through here throughout the years.  Had a respectable barbecue dinner in Busbee's BBQ.
Then arrived in San Antonio, after driving almost 500 miles.  Will explore all that this small Texan city has to offer tomorrow (and take a break from driving) and then head to Austin on Friday.

Day 26: Carlsbad Caverns

Left Alamogordo, NM, after visiting the NM Space History Museum.  Another surprising local treasure trove of space artifacts.  With all of these rockets scattered around the West, who needs the Smithsonian?

I then headed to Carlsbad Caverns:

 I arrived too late to take the hike down from the Natural opening into the caverns, so I took the elevator down to the Big Room; somewhat disappointed.  I then realized that I probably had time to hike up the trail, so there I went, despite the sign:

Exhausted, but triumphant, because of my strong knees, I then took the elevator back down and took my time exploring the vast caverns.  Thankfully, my earlier tour of Kartchner caverns gave me the background knowledge to understand all the cave formations.

Then it was time for Bat Flight!  At sunset, hundreds of thousands of bats took wing and put on quite a show.  I was so glad to be able to see this in person, after having heard about it for years, since my undergraduate days doing bat research at BU.

Another fantastic day and I haven't even hit Texas yet!

Day 25: Southern New Mexico

Drove through from southern Arizona to New Mexico, passing by a few roadside attractions.  First I stopped by The Thing in southern Arizona, drawn in by the many billboards:

Not sure what it is, but I only paid a dollar to see it!

I then stopped by to see the Running Indian in New Mexico:

After so many pit stops to absorb the local culture, I finally made it to White Sands National Park.  Unbelievable!  275 square miles of glittering white gypsum sands, surrounded by the Chihuahuan Desert, the largest desert in North America.  Had an informative sunset stroll, led by Ranger Julia, who shared her passion for the flora and flauna of this unusual desert.

And yes, that is not snow surrounding me, it's unbelievably white sand!

Day 24: Bisbee, Arizona

Stopped in Tombstone and spied some vestiges of the wild, wild West:

And then traveled on to Bisbee, Arizona, where we visited a copper mine located just a few miles from the border with Mexico.  We donned our raincoats, miners' helmets, and light packs and climbed aboard the mine train that took us into the mine:

Our guide had worked in a copper mine for 21 years and regaled us with many stories of the dangers and adventures of working in the mines.  I have a new appreciation of the hard work involved in this form of mining, especially after seeing the open pit mine, located right next door to the Queen Mine.  What devastation to the environment!

Passed through another border checkpoint and saw a van full of Mexican workers being searched as they tried to come into this country.  Not sure whether they were legal or not, but certainly a very different day-to-day experience than that which I experience back in Hopkinton.

Day 23: Tucson, Arizona

Spent the day exploring the fantastic caves at Kartchner Caverns State Park, near Benson, Arizona.  Very informative guided tour into a live cave; with developing stalactites & stalagmites, including one of the world's longest "soda straws", at 21 feet long!  Gave me a new appreciation for caves, caving and park rangers!
Then dinner in Tubac, a charming village full of art & history, just a few miles from Mexico.  Went through a border check point and was very appreciative for our American-looking faces!

Day 22: HOT

Drove through the desert from California to Arizona, where the highest temperature I saw on my car was 111 degrees!  Arrived in Tucson in time to see the most beautiful sunset across the desert.  Another lovely dinner with Jean, John and Chris Crawford and then a soak in their hot tub, watching shooting stars, what could be better?

Day 21: Desert Hot Springs

Drove a mere 2 hours to Desert Hot Springs for some rest & relaxation.  Had a deep tissue massage and I'm ready to hit as many of the 8 hot tubs/spas as I can here at Miracle Springs Resort.  A nice way to begin my return journey to Massachusetts!  20 states down and probably another 10 or so new ones to hit before Hopkinton.  It's a balmy 102 degrees here at 7 at night and is expected to cool right down to 85 or so with the sun going down.  At least it's dry heat, not like the humidity of Florida this time of year!
Headed to Jean & John's in Tucson, AZ tomorrow!

Day 20: Venice Beach

Spent the day exploring the beaches and, although I didn't dip my toes in the Pacific, I did walk along the sandy beach.  Started in Malibu, at Paradise Cove, where Wulf and I had a great lunch on the beach, even though it was sweatshirt weather!  Then headed down to Venice Beach, where I saw a few muscle men on Muscle Beach and explored the canals of Venice.  Although it didn't rain, I guess sometimes it is cloudy in southern California!

Day 19: Los Angeles

Spent the day in and around LA.  Started at the Forest Lawn in Glendale, where I tried to locate the memorial for Humphrey Bogart, with no success.  Beautiful grounds and museum with lots of stained glass.  Then moved on to something more uplifting, lunch at the Farmer's Market and the window shopping at The Grove, where I spied my first celebrity sighting, Mario Lopez, filming Extra!

Then drove through Beverly Hills and Hollywood to arrive at the Getty Museum.  It was a beautiful building, with lovely impressionist art, sketches, sculpture, and fantastic gardens.  The architecture alone was worth a visit:

So much to see and so little time!

Day 18: Los Angeles

Arrived in Glendale, California to stay with Sandy Reed & Wulf Klemm.  Lovely neighborhood and just sitting down to a lovely meal.  Headed to the Getty Center tomorrow.  More later.

Day 17: Las Vegas

Took the scenic route into Vegas, through the Valley of Fire:

Another red sandstone park, this one the first state park set up in Nevada.  Wonderful vistas and winding roads.  Sure beat the freeway!  Saw lots more wildlife in this less traveled byway.

Then toured the Hoover Dam.  Well worth the detour, learned so much about the power of water to generate electricity.  You could just feel the power!

And then on to Las Vegas.  My first time here and man, is it over the top!  Like Times Square on steroids!  Every conceivable type of person, place and animal!  Checked out the "A Sense of Place" exhibit at the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art.  It was a small exhibit but had some fantastic Monets and Hockneys.   Had a lovely dinner at Roy's (Hawaiian fusion cuisine) and then just joined the multitudes of people as they cruised the strip.  Ended the night at the Bellagio outdoor water show.

Day 16: Zion National Park

First off, thank you, Jean, for recommending that I make this stop on the way from Santa Fe to Las Vegas! What an unbelievable adventure today!  I hiked the 5.4 mile trek (roundtrip) to Angel's Landing, which, though it is one of the most "popular" hikes, was fantastic.  It took just less than 4 hours and involved some  serious mind-games on my part to keep going.  There are chains that I held on to for dear life and missed when they weren't there...

The scenery was fantastic and I actually look like I'm having fun, which, in a perverse way, I was!  This was taken on the way down by my new friends (names unknown) who were training for a 3 day hike in the Grand Canyon.  I didn't tell them that Steph and I hiked the G.C. last year!  (of course, they will be carrying tents and food, etc.)

So far, I haven't mentioned some of the fantastic people I've met on this trip.  And I have to acknowledge the very kind and generous folks who picked up my pedometer very early on the trail (I lost it when I took off my coat) and carried it up to the mid-way point to find me and give it to me!  That's how I know it was 5.4 miles!
Exhausted, I then hit the Weeping Rock Trail, where I saw my first tarantula of the trip.  He seemed quite comfortable with all the people snapping pictures of him!
Then, safely ensconced in my car, I drove the next part of my adventure, through the 1.1 mile tunnel carved in 1930 to take visitors to the other side of the park.  What a different type of scenery:

She's been good to me, taking me on this adventure, so I thought I'd include a picture of my faithful companion, my 2010 VW Jetta TDI, we rock!

Day 15: Santa Fe to Utah

591 miles later, I'm here in Washington, Utah, near Zion National Park.
Stopped by the Petroglyph National Monument outside Albuquerque.  Hiked a small portion of the West Mesa which contained many petroglyphs (some of the 20,000 images created centuries ago by the native people who inhabited the Rio Grande Valley long ago).  The hike was made more challenging by the notice I read as I began the hike:

That didn't stop me, though from exploring and getting some great shots of the petroglyphs:

Having survived the threat of rattlers, I then proceeded to drive through some of the most dramatic and haunting part of my trip so far.  From desolate, almost barren red fields to the north rim of the Grand Canyon, I was constantly amazed at the landscape I was driving through.  Ah, the thrill of the open road!

Day 14: Santa Fe

Art, culture and exercise in Santa Fe!
First, took a 20 mile bike ride on the Arroyo De Los Chamisos bike trail along the very dried up arroyo.  Santa Fe is almost as dry as Kansas.  Let's hope they both get rain soon.  I have discovered how other parts of the country are so impacted by weather, in a way that I'm not aware of in the Northeast.  Yes, we are inconvenienced by hurricanes, snow and ice but not in a way that impacts our livelihood, like my new friends in Kansas.  This has been a real eye opener.

I then went into the Plaza and explored old Santa Fe, including Canyon Road, where I saw the funniest art, it just makes you laugh, doesn't it?

I then visited the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, which was fascinating.  I learned so much about how the local Indians survived and even thrived in such a tough environment.  I also discovered a new artist (for me):  Tony Da, the son of famous potters who became famous himself for both his pottery as well as his art.
Another good day!  Headed to Zion National Park tomorrow.  Long drive (580 miles-clearly breaking my rule of 400 miles max) but really no other way.  Tomorrow's blog entry will be short!

Day 13: Route 25 from Colorado to Santa Fe

Drove almost 400 miles today, back to my usual "limit".  Went through the most torrential downpour that I've experienced; too bad I can't send it to Kansas where they need it!  Saw an unusual sight: two halves of a modular/mobile home being transported and, when one overtook the other, I took a snapshot.  Hard to see but worth a look.

Hiked 3.5 miles in the Garden of the Gods this morning, it was fabulous, not many people and spectacular views of all the red rocks.  Arrived safely in Santa Fe, staying in the Silver Saddle Motel, and here's what they have to say about the place:
A kitschy Western style Santa Fe motel that has been welcoming budget travelers for the past 50 years. The motel is a roadside original which allows travelers to experience a bit of old southwest history and charm. 
So far, so good, I like it.  And they have bikes to borrow to bike into old Santa Fe, what's not to like?  I'll spend two nights here and try to visit Taos while I'm here.
Good mexican food tonight at the Cafe Castro (nothing Cuban on the menu as far as I could tell).

Day 12: Colorado Springs

Continued on to Colorado Springs.  Took the cog railway to the top of Pike's Peak, where the temperature was 32 degrees and it was snowing!  What a difference from the 100 degree heat in Kansas!  The ride up took us through a few different climates, past the aspen trees and even some bighorn sheep.  Just put the news on the tv and there is a winter weather advisory, talk about a different environment!
Then I drove through the Garden of the Gods, unbelievable scenery, loaded with red rock formations that just went on and on.

I am so impressed with Colorado Springs and I haven't even tried any of the mineral springs yet!

Day 11: A day at the Farm

Spent the day at the Schlegel Farm-what an operation!  The farm equipment is so incredibly huge, but I guess that's what it takes to farm so many acres.  The Schlegels were fantastic hosts for my two, very busy, days in Kansas.  In addition, after the partial tour of the farm (way too much to cover in one day), I was very fortunate to be able to go to the top of the grain elevator.  What a different experience!  Now if the mid-west could only get some rain so that they can plant their wheat in a few weeks!  Think rain, everybody!
I then hit the road and made it to Limon, Colorado (75 miles from Colorado Springs).  Colorado seemed just like Kansas, but only for the first 100 miles or so, then the hills began.  I can see the Rockies off in the distance, so know that I have another different experience ahead of me, again!

Day 10: Hutchinson, Kansas

Drove with Grace & Pete Schlegel to Hutchinson, Kansas to see two fantastic sites:  the Cosmosphere and the Salt Museum.  The Cosmosphere puts all other air & space museums to shame, including, possibly, the Smithsonian.  It contains more actual artifacts and information than can possibly be absorbed in one viewing.  And the salt museum is located 650 feet below ground and contains film, data and other irreplaceable items for storage, as well as a working salt mine.  Fantastic!

Another full day, and I haven't even been out to the farm yet!  That's on the agenda for tomorrow and then I head to Colorado.  Who knew that western Kansas contained so many varied and interesting things?  I guess most native Kansans.

Day 9: western Kansas

Traveled a mere 60 miles today to arrive in Ness City, Kansas.  Staying with Grace & Pete Schlegel, parents of my friend, Pat, from graduate school.  Went into Dodge City and experienced the wild west (or a reconstruction of the same).  Lovely dinner and tour of Dodge and Ness City.  Planning a side trip to the salt mines tomorrow (there's a joke in there somewhere, isn't there?).

Day 8: Kansas

Day 7: Kansas City

Drove across Missouri today, going almost 300 miles.  That seems to be my limit (Blazing Saddles reference).  Drove through the Missouri Rhineland, stopping at Stone Hill Winery to sample Missouri wines.  Who knew that they even made wine in Missouri?  Jefferson City seemed like a good destination as well, but once there, it was mostly the capitol building and a closed information center, so I pressed on.
Arrived at the Country Club Plaza, a huge open air shopping area, where my hotel is.  Off to dine on barbecue, full report to follow!

Day 6: St. Louis

Wonderful city!  Very walkable and full of art and culture!  Took the tram to the top of the Arch (not for the claustrophobic that's for sure), visited the Art Museum (being renovated but had some good European paintings that I enjoyed), stopped by the City Museum (wish I had more time to explore its many quirky tunnels), explored the City Garden (full of fun and whimsical outdoor sculptures), and had some quiet time in the Cathedral Basilica (full of fantastic mosaics).  Had a great time with my host, Phoebe Welsh (the mom of one of Steph's friends from her London program-I'm so pleased the girls have kept in touch through the past five years and now they are both in school in NYC).
Had toasted ravioli-a St. Louis treat and homemade peach muffins-Yum!
Off to KC tomorrow via the Missouri Rhineland, no highway driving tomorrow for me-yeah!

Day 5: Drive to St. Louis

Made it to St. Louis; drove through Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois, though it was hard to tell the difference!  Pretty flat the whole way!  Another 430 miles under my belt!
Staying with the family of a friend of Steph's here in St. Louis and we are planning to see the Arch, visit the art museum and even the Cathedral Basilica tomorrow.  A nice way to begin my visit to the mid-west.

Day 4: Quiet time in Ohio

Quiet day on the Tinnel farm.  One less pig, but all the chickens are still here.  What a different experience than life in Hopkinton!  Headed to St. Louis tomorrow, my first visit to the mid-west.  Looking forward to many new experiences, both culinary and otherwise!

Day 3: Labor Day party in Ohio

Pig Roast and Rummikub with the cousins, what could be better?  Maybe beating Corey next time!

Day 2: Stop in PA

Arrived safely in Hillsboro, Ohio, after another 350 miles, to join my brother and his family for Labor Day festivities.  Mom is also here from VA and we will be joined by many of their friends as well.

Plans are afoot for roast pig and all the fixings tomorrow.  The first of many feasts in my epicurean journey throughout the southern United States.  I can hardly wait!

Day 1: Leaving Hopkinton

Left Hopkinton at 10:45, picked up Steph in New Haven, CT, but not before picking up sandwiches and rugula at Rein's Deli in Hartford, CT (a bit of a tradition).  Traffic heavy in New York and New Jersey, but what else is new?
Made it to Breezewood, PA by 7:15 pm.  Best Western Plaza Inn and every conceivable fast food joint on the planet.  Managed to google a decent restaurant at the Union Hotel in Everett, PA.  Nice meal!